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How to Catch Estuary Perch

By Luke Smith

Estuary perch can be found in river and estuary systems in southern New South Wales, throughout Victoria and into eastern South Australia, preferring the brackish waters of the lower tidal reaches of coastal lakes, rivers and streams. Hot spots to target these fish include southwest Victoria, in the Hopkins and Glenelg rivers and in the east in systems such as the Tambo and Bemm rivers, both of which are big producers.

Estuary perch closely resemble and are often confused with Australian bass, however closer inspection will reveal that the estuary perch is slightly deeper in the body, with a concave or 'scooped' snout profile and longer snout than the bass.

Estuary perch (EPs), in my home waters of southwest Victoria, can be somewhat predictable in their movements throughout the systems, however you are still no guarantee of catching this at times elusive fish. During the summer months EPs will push right up into the fresh water and generally become harder to catch. Targeting them in low light conditions, with surface or shallow running lures is your best option. As we move toward winter the bigger fish will begin to move down river into the salt water to spawn. This is usually the best time to target these fish as they become more active in the salt water. It's not uncommon to find schools of hungry perch and catch double digits in short periods of time. During spring the EPs begin to push upriver toward the fresh and this is when I personally catch my bigger fish.

Technique

My techniques will vary depending on the time of year and the chosen location. In the summer months I will target perch in the upper reaches of my local rivers, pushing right into the fresh water. Estuary perch are natural surface ambush predators, with their large eyes located slightly closer together, making them more susceptible to surface or shallow running baits during low light periods. Warm nights, when there are plenty of bugs about, are best and usually you will see the fish actively feeding. Tight casts to structure will usually trigger the bites best, but don't be afraid to pause lures for good amounts of time to really let them have a look at it.

During autumn I find them most difficult as the fish can quite often shut down as they travel down river and start thinking about spawning. The fish quite often move off the edges and sit in deeper water, this itself making it harder to trigger a bite. Fishing deeper, with heavier plastics, vibes or deep hard bodies, is a preferred technique for me and the fish are usually well-conditioned. However, in saying that, numbers can be hit and miss this time of year.

Winter is the time when you know that these fish have moved down lower in the systems and you can actively target them. Each system is different, depending on the amount of rainwater flowing down the river and whether the mouths of the rivers are open, allowing salt water to push back up the rivers. A good sounder is your friend here, to help you locate schooling fish, along with a good memory of previous years. They will not always be in the same spot, however they're usually not far off depending on the freshwater flow.

The fish sitting deeper are still trickier to get a bite from, however I find that if you work the edges nearby there are usually some actively feeding fish. Again, low light times are best, however with the cooler water temps I prefer to throw plastics and vibes, working the bottom and any sunken structure.

In spring, the fish have generally finished their business and begin the trek back toward the fresh, but not before they smash the local baitfish population and recondition themselves after breeding. This is what makes spring an ideal time to target them as they are usually more than willing to smash lures. Edge bites are the norm and don't be afraid to mix it up.

Estuary perch will eat basically any lure offering and will devour some rather large presentations. I have caught plenty of EPs as bycatch when targeting jewies on 5 or 6 inch lures, however ZMan 2.5" GrubZ and Slim SwimZ are by far the most productive presentation, especially when rigged light and smeared with some Pro-Cure scent. Mudflats, with a bit of structure, are a go to for me.

Rod Selection

Rod choice is always a debateable topic. It's one of those times where there is no right or wrong answer, however there is better options than others. Some prefer fast action rods, some like to fish heavier, some prefer shorter rods, always a personal preference. For me, I cannot go past the Okuma Helios SX HSX-S-702L. This is a 7', 1-3kg rod, with a lovely soft tip and an all-round great feel. It loads up beautifully and has some grunt down low if required. With slim grips and a slightly shorter butt section it feels that bit more finesse to me, which I really enjoy.

Reel Selection

I always pick my rod first and then choose a reel to suit. As long as the reel has a smooth drag and isn't too big, it will do the job. Many choose to fish with the 20 size reels, which continues the finesse theme, however I much prefer the 30 size as they have a larger diameter spool, which enables longer casting. Casting distance is often critical in estuary fishing and can be the difference between catching a fish and not catching. Being able to reach fish that are further away gives a far better chance of those fish not being spooked or alerted to your presence. I choose to use the Okuma Helios SX, HSX-30, however for value for money the Okuma Jaw in a 30 is extremely hard to beat.

Line Selection

Braided line for me is an absolute must. There's no substitute for the casting distance and sensitivity that braid creates. Straight through fluorocarbon is a great stealth option, however it's better used chasing fussy bream. What braid to use again is a personal choice and some will pick by colour, others by number of strands and some by price. For me the diameter of the braid is always crucial as I want to keep my casting distance at a premium. I chose to run the Platypus P8 in 6lb. This comes in hi-vis orange, which I don't mind as I can always see the braid and I run a longer leader so I'm not too concerned about the fish seeing it.

Leader Selection

My common theme continues as I choose to run a lighter leader, using the Platypus Stealth FC Fluorocarbon in 4lb. This is an ideal diameter line for light lure fishing as the knot strength is great and the diameter allows for a smaller knot, which casts through the guides beautifully all day long. It also doesn't catch too much wind and lose accuracy, like heavier leaders can. I am able to tie a double uni leader knot and not have to check it all day as they do not get damaged whilst casting. If using 6lb or heavier, leader knots start to get bulkier and you can hear them clunk through the guides, making them more susceptible to damage and needing to be checked regularly. FG knots are a must for me when using any heavier than 4lb leaders.

Lure Selection

ZMan 2.5" GrubZ and 2.5" Slim SwimZ are easily my favourites and therefore I fish them more than any other offering. Fishing with confidence is always a big thing for me and these lures have me thinking I am going to get a bite every cast. They can be fished year-round, with some subtle changes in rigging to vary the depths targeted. Bloodworm and Motor Oil are two great colours that are very hard to go past in each plastic. Throw in Bad Shad, Baby Bass, Pearl and Green Pumpkin and you are set.

For the winter bites I also really do love a Red Nightmare coloured 1/8oz TT Lures Switchblade metal vibes. The dark colour is perfect for the deeper fish and the vibration can certainly be the difference in triggering a bite or not. The added advantage of long casts is a bonus but don't be afraid to throw these in the shallows. I have caught many of good perch and bream in less than a metre of water on vibes.

Small surface poppers or bent style lures are definitely useful over summer but don't rule out using surface plastics such as the ZMan 2.75" Finesse FrogZ. Frogs are a natural food source for the estuary perch in the fresh and they will willingly smash a frog off the top in the warmer months.

Additional Tips

There is no sacrifice for time on the water to try and figure these fish out. Every day is different to the last and we have no way of knowing what mood the fish are in. Keeping a detailed diary is invaluable as a reference point, consisting of date, time, location, weather, temp, wind, barometer and as silly as it sounds for fresh water, the tides. Also include any other comments about bugs flying about, lures used, lures that get the bite and so on to try and form something that will be useful after several years of input. Whilst the fish are everchanging, a certain pattern may be discovered and this could be the difference in getting a bite or not.

Estuary perch love a sharp drop in the barometer. If it's been a 30 plus degree day and the late change is coming, causing a thunderstorm, this is the ideal day to be targeting them. Timing the bite window is the trickier part as the fish may fire at any point in time during the lead up to the change or even during. Just remember to be safe and stop waving around a graphite rod if the lightning starts.

Lastly, EPs are schooling fish, so where there's one, there will likely be more. Keep persisting in an area if one has been caught. Try different lures and techniques before moving on or even rest the spot and return back to it later on.

I hope you enjoy the challenges and rewards that come with this iconic and somewhat mysterious species as much as I do and have the opportunity to chase them soon. Fish on!

Cheers, Luke

Gearing Up:

Okuma Helios SX Spin Rods - HSX-S-701L 7' 1-3kg
Okuma Helios SX Spin Reels - HSX-30
Platypus P8 Braid - 6lb
Platypus Stealth FC Fluorocarbon Leader - 4lb
ZMan 2.5" GrubZ
ZMan 2.5" Slim SwimZ
TT Lures HeadlockZ Finesse Jigheads
Pro-Cure Super Gel Scent
Pro-Cure Tinted Bait Sauce