Tackle Tactics » Tips-Techniques » Bait-Fishing » Bait Fishing Basics - How to Catch Whiting
Bait Fishing Basics - How to Catch Whiting
By Brett Weiler
Whiting are my favourite fish species to chase, especially on really light gear. I grew up fishing the sand flats of Fraser Island for them in the late 70's and early 80's and have loved it ever since. I just love the fight they give on light gear!
I'm a bit old school in that I love chasing whiting with bait and there are a few different baits that seem to work better in certain areas. For example, at the beach the number one bait would have to be fresh beach worms, followed by pipis. In the estuaries and creeks, yabbies and bloodworms work a treat. Additionally, I've also used strips of squid and small green prawns, while my grandfather swore by strips of pilchard fillets in the surf as well. Of course, with all baits, fresh is best. That is not to say that preserved or frozen baits are not effective, and I have had some cracker sessions on these baits also. As a general rule though I try to stick to fresh where possible.
In terms of bait presentation, there are different ways to present different baits. When it comes to worms, I tend to use a piece around 5-7cm long and thread the worm right up to around 2cm above the hook. Try not to let the worm go around the gape of the hook. I will let the worm lay straight down the hook, exposing the hook point and gape, leaving around 2cm of worm trailing below the hook.
Yabbies are pretty simple. They are just threaded onto the hook, like a prawn, bringing the point of the hook out between the legs on the belly side of the yabby. I then finish off the presentation with a half hitch around the tail to stop the bait from sliding down the hook.
Pipis can be a bit fiddly to put on the hook, however they definitely worth the effort! Once you have opened the shell, remove everything including the bi-valve (the stringy bits). I like to start by putting the hook through the yellow part first (the foot or the bit that you see poking out when they are in water), then just twist the hook and keep threading the pipi on, including going through the white part of the pipi. I then finish off with the bi-valves and they're the toughest part and will actually help to hold the rest of the pipi on the hook.
When fishing with squid I simply cut long thin strips and put the hook through once. The pilchard fillet is another option and you just start at the pointy end of the fillet and push the hook through the flesh side and out the skin side, pull it all the way through and then push the hook tip through the skin so that the hook lays flat against the skin. Finish it off with a half hitch around the top of the hook and you're ready to fish.
When it comes to the rig I use around a 60cm trace of 4lb Platypus Stealth FC Fluorocarbon Leader (I'd go lighter but the old eyes aren't what they used to be!), a size 4 longshank hook and a 5cm piece of red tubing and a red bead above the hook. At night I will also use a Lumo bead. I also use the smallest size swivel I can to join the leader to the mainline (size 10 works well).
I use a running sinker above the swivel on the mainline. Generally, I start with a size 0 ball sinker, however if there's a bit of current or sweep I can go up a size or two as needed to keep the bait where I want it. Surf sinkers can help in this situation and they look just like someone has flattened out a ball sinker. Due to their flattened shape they are less impacted by the current and sweep, which allows you to use a lighter weight. Fishing as light as possible, in my experience, will increase your catch rate.
This rule also applies to our line. Go as light as you can, and as I said before, I would go lighter with the Stealth leader if my eyes allowed, down to 2lb! For me though, 3kg Platypus Lo-Stretch monofilament mainline and 4lb Platypus Stealth FC leader are a great combination and for whiting you won't need to go any heavier.
When targeting whiting from the beach I like to use a moderately long rod, that's around 10' - 11' in length. Ideally, I like a rod with a slow action, so it is nice and 'whippy'. This is matched to a reel in the 3000-4000 size. In the estuary I go down to a rod that is around the 7' mark, again with a slow action and matched to a 2000 size reel. Both reels I load with 3kg Platypus Lo-Stretch mono.
When I first arrive at a spot, whether it is at the beach or landbased fishing in an estuary, I always stand a fair way back from the water's edge as whiting are easily spooked when they're in close. My first cast will always be a long cast right out and then I begin a slow retrieve until I find where they're biting. Once I have found where they are biting, I will cast just beyond that and wind slowly back into that area.
When you feel that bite, like a machine gun firing, resist the urge to strike. It sounds strange, however try to wait until the rod tip bends and then it is just a gentle lift of the rod tip to secure the hook up. I find that a constant slow retrieve works really well. I don't let the bait sit if I can help it.
At the beach I like to look for areas of the gutter where the sand is getting disturbed, but not that much that it looks like a washing machine. In the estuary I love hitting the yabby banks on a rising tide as the whiting start to move up over them to feed. It's worth remembering that generally whiting will roam. One minute you are having a hot bite session of half an hour, then bang they are gone. Don't be afraid to move around as it could be as simple as walking a couple of hundred metres or less to maintain contact with the fish.
Whiting are not only awesome fun on light gear, they're rewarding on the plate as well, so hopefully with these tips you can hook yourself a feed and have a tonne of fun in the process.
Tight lines, Brett